Yellowstone in Autumn: Our Fall Favorites

There’s been a change in the air lately. The chokecherries are ripe, elk are bugling, and the last blooms of fireweed cling to the top of the stalks. Summer, it seems, is at an end. The air is cooler yes, and the light slants differently, but it’s more than that. There’s a sense of both excitement and urgency; to pick apples, cut firewood. The ancient desire to stock up, draw in, and prepare for winter is palpable. As the sun turns its head towards winter, we too turn our gaze; to the golden glory of aspen leaves and rabbitbrush, and the change in the plants and animals around us. Blackbirds and sandhill cranes gather in larger groups, raptors soar on their migratory paths, and bears begin to fatten up for winter, their scat filled with the telltale orange of rose hips and berries.

In November, the weather can become harsh and bleak. But September and October still hold the promise of Indian summer, and bright sunny days with slanted sunlight and a dusting of snow. Like the red squirrels scurrying to cache whitebark pine cones for winter, we also scurry– to fit in the last of our hiking and camping adventures before truly bitter weather forces us indoors until the snow is deep enough to ski. Here are our top 5 favorite things to do and see in Yellowstone in autumn:

1. Raptor Watching

Fall is a great time to grab your binoculars and search the sky for raptors as they migrate along the continental divide. Search places like Hayden Valley, Lamar Valley, or Mount Washburn for kestrels, merlins, and peregrine falcons heading south, and bald eagles heading west. You’ll also see rough legged hawks arriving from the north to spend the winter in Yellowstone.

2. Enjoy the Fall Colors

While Yellowstone has fewer showy aspens and cottonwoods than other rocky mountain places, the fall color is still stunning, especially if you fix your gaze below the forest canopy. The range of reds and oranges and yellows to be found in shrubs like wild rose, rabbitbrush, and mountain ash, as well as the ground cover like fireweed and sticky geranium, are truly stunning. Good places to see fall colors are the Tower Junction/Tower Falls area, the Blacktail Plateau Drive, Swan Lake Flats, and the Hellroaring Overlook.

3. Observing the Elk Rut

No guide to autumn in Yellowstone is complete without talking about the elk rut. Watching and listening to the eerie bugle of the bulls as they guard their harems is one of the true highlights of fall, and Mammoth Hot Springs is grand central. Watching in the village itself is interesting, but if you want to get away from the crowds you might try driving the old Gardiner-Mammoth road or searching around Swan Lake Flats. If you hike the Beaver Ponds loop, you’ll hear the bugles echoing all around you. Be careful though – bull elk are very aggressive during the rut. Do not approach the animals and stay close to your car if watching from the road. Photo: ©Brad Orsted

4. Hike, Hike, Hike!

September and October are hands down some of the best times of year to hike in Yellowstone. The air is crisp and cool, and the ground cover shimmers with fall color. We love to hike cross-country on the northern range, or on trails like Yellowstone Picnic Area, or Garnet Hill for their wildlife sign and fall color. The bears are still out, so we are always sure to carry bear spray. Extra clothing is a must as well – while there can be many relatively warm and dry days, the weather is still highly changeable and can be downright cold. Expect rain, snow, wind, and sun and prepare accordingly with layers of clothing.

5. Drive the Lower Loop Before the Roads Close for Winter

In early November, the interior park roads close to allow snow to accumulate for winter over-snow travel. After November 6, 2017 the only road open to two-wheeled vehicles will be between Mammoth and Cooke City. (Some roads close earlier – check the park’s website for road conditions.) One of our favorite things to do is drive the lower loop on the last weekend before the roads close. You’ll find almost no one in the park; the boardwalks are empty and wildlife reign supreme in the breathing heart of the park. You can feel the changing of the seasons, and a visceral sense that nature really is truly in charge here.

Check out our favorite things to do in spring by reading Our Top 5 Spring Favorites.