The weight of the world is kind of heavy right now, and I needed a break. Last week I took a couple of days and headed to my happy place; the the mountains surrounding the northeast entrance to Yellowstone and the tiny communities of Silver Gate and Cooke City.
I left Gardiner around 5pm, which put me squarely in the golden hour for photographs. The stress and angst that had been living between my shoulders lifted little by little the farther into the park I got. By the time I got to Fisherman’s pullout in Lamar, the world started to seem a whole lot better. I pulled over and walked out into the sage to watch the river and the clouds float by, breathing deeply for the first time in weeks. THIS is what the park—and wild places—do for us. I’m not sure how long I sat there listening to the water, the sandpipers and brewer’s blackbirds calling among the shoreline and willows, and watching the huge puffy white clouds marching overhead.
Eventually I returned to the truck and meandered through the valley, wildlife watching on my way to spend a couple of nights in the Silver Gate/Cooke City area.
Wildlife watching in Yellowstone: moose, black bear, fox, bison, and more!
First of all, the trip was filled with moose, moose, and more moose! Between Pebble Creek and a few miles past Cooke Pass, I saw several moose each day, including three that crossed the road right in front of me. It’s fairly common to see moose in this part of the park, but I didn’t even have to try!
There’s always something amazing in the park, and this trip was no exception. Both the fox and the black bear were busy foraging for food – the black bear munching on grass, the the fox listening intently for rodents in the vegetation. I never get tired of watching bison, which is good because they are plentiful in the park.
My first trip of the season to the Beartooth Highway.
I woke the next morning and headed straight east of Cooke City towards the Beartooths. The road isn’t usually driveable until Memorial Day, so the first trip on this high plateau over 10,000 feet is a huge annual treat.
While the mountains were still filled with quite a bit of snow, it was a beautiful day and skiiers were out enjoying the last snowfields before retiring their skis for the summer. It’s not uncommon to spot mountain goats up here, including this one at a salt lick alongside the road. My initial excitement over spotting a goat subsided a bit when I looked closer and noticed the lack of fur arund its belly and legs. I assume it had mange.
Take a hike!
I don’t know about you, but I get super sleepy when I spend too much time in the truck. After a morning exploring by vehicle i’m ready to get out on foot. In this case, I decided to hike towards Pebble Creek from the Warm Creek trailhead, a 2.2 mile one-way steep hike into the first meadow of Pebble Creek. I got turned around at the mountain pass between drainages because of lingering snow, but still enjoyed working my legs and lungs and enjoying the view. It’s obvious that the black bears have been enjoying the trail too; made me glad I had my bear spray and made lots of noise, like I always do.
All in all it was a wonderful short getaway, and exactly what I needed to refresh the soul and spirit.
Our recommended three day northeast corner and Beartooths itinerary.
June is a fantastic time to be in this part of the park; everything is as green as it will get all year, flowers are blooming, wildlife is abundant everywhere, and the Beartooth Highway is usually open. Visiting in June allows you to get the best of wildlife watching as well as a trip to the Beartooth plateau. Here’s our favorite itinerary-arriving and departing through Yellowstone:
Day 1: Drive through Lamar Valley and the Soda Butte valleys in the evening, when the light is best for photographs, and wildlife are more active.
Day 2: Take a leisurely breakfast at the Bearclaw Bakery in Cooke City or the Log Cabin Cafe in Silver Gate before spending the day driving the Beartooth Highway.
Take a hike on one of the area’s many trails, including the Bannock Trail, Trout Lake, or Kersey Lake. Be sure to take bear spray, make noise, and hike in groups. This is definitely bear country! Explore the towns of Cooke City and Silver Gate in the evenings.
Day 3: Depart early on your return to catch the early morning sunlight and wildlife watching on your way back through the park.
I stayed in two places; the Pine Edge Cabins in Silver Gate, and the Big Moose Resort at Cooke Pass, just a few miles past Cooke City. Both are comfortable base camps for exploring and enjoying the solitude of the area, and feature peaceful wooded and mountain views. Terri at the Big Moose told me about the grizzly bear that’s been hanging out in the area, and made sure there was a picnic table outside the room for enjoying the sounds of the deep forest surrounding the cabins. I stayed up late writing at the table and listening to the last sounds of the day before heading to bed.
Enjoy! Send me a message at info@ayellowstonelife.com if you are planning a trip to the area and have questions. You can also check out the Cooke City/Silver Gate Chamber of Commerce for more ideas for places to stay and eat.
Images © Jenny Golding