Yellowstone fall colors are often subtle. Unlike the east coast where oaks and maples and birch and other deciduous trees display a broad pageant of yellows, reds, and oranges, the colors here are squirreled away in the nooks and crannies between an ocean of Douglas fir, lodgepole pine, sage, and brown grass. A lot of the glory of fall here is found in the ground cover and low bushes; the wild rose, currant, strawberry, willow leaves that blaze along creek beds and on the forest floor. Even the showier cottonwoods and aspens are found only in sparse patches near water. The relative scarcity of color here makes the change of leaves even sweeter. You have to seek out these vibrant patches of color, but when you do the rewards are many.

Occasionally when moisture and air and soil temperature all line up we have the conditions for some pretty spectacular color in the aspen and cottonwood trees. A long string of warm sunny days and crisp nights above freezing make for the best color. It seems that often we get an early freeze that shrivels the leaves before they have a chance to form the abscission layer that impedes the movement of chlorophyll and other materials from the stems to the leaves. This year however, they put on a brilliant show of yellow that George says looks “like oil paint straight out of the tube.”

Seeking out fall color in greater Yellowstone is why I’ve come to stay in Cooke City for a few days.

I love love love to watch the seasons change (I realize I’m not alone in this…)

Cooke City and Silver Gate make great basecamps for seeking out Yellowstone fall color because you can catch the cottonwoods along the Lamar and Soda Butte valleys, as well as the aspen trees adorning the Chief Joseph and Beartooth Highways.

On my way to Cooke City from Gardiner, Montana the first afternoon, I spend a blissful hour in a small aspen stand along the Blacktail Plateau Drive taking photos of individual leaves. Here’s an excerpt from the Facebook post I made of the moment:

It feels like there’s infinity embedded in a single aspen tree. I could stay here in this stand of trees all day, all month, and never be able to fully comprehend the depth of beauty and detail in these leaves.

Each and every one so intricate, so very much an individual. I’m drawn to the imperfect ones in particular, because of their stunning uniqueness and individuality. Some of them look like butterflies.

The way the leaves flicker and shimmer in the light is like nature’s own confetti. I could take a hundred, a thousand, a million photographs and never ever come close to capturing their splendor.

Would the world not be a better place if we all took time to sit beneath an aspen tree in fall?

I take my time meandering the rest of the way to the northeast entrance, scouting possible photo spots for the next day. I’m staying at the Elk Horn Lodge, a family owned hotel with 6 rooms and 2 cabins, super clean and comfortable rooms, reliable WiFi, and a cult following. The friendly owner Lisa Ohlinger tells me I am the only one in the hotel that isn’t a repeat visitor! Most of the others have been coming back for years. It is a wonderful base camp for exploring both the park and the Beartooths, which is just what I need.

Fall colors in Lamar Valley

The next morning I take a leisurely breakfast in my room and write in my journal before heading out to search of golden trees. One of the added benefits about autumn is you don’t have to get up so darn early! The sun isn’t up until quarter past 7, and even then still takes quite some time to make its lazy way over the steep mountain ridges overshadowing this tiny town.

Eventually I head back towards the park to photograph the trees around the Lamar Buffalo Ranch and the confluence of the Soda Butte and Lamar Rivers. I time my journey to arrive in the mid morning, when the trees were backlit. While spending time with a particularly photogenic cottonwood with a reflection in Soda Butte creek, a herd of bison happens to cross the creek, making for a more wonderful photo. Later, I meet a friend and meander through a large cottonwood stand along the Lamar River.

As always colors are best early to mid morning and mid to late afternoon on sunny days. Once the sun is high around the middle of the day, the colors become washed out and the shadows deeper. My personal favorite is to catch cottonwood and aspen trees when they are backlit.

I return to Cooke City to rest up a bit before heading the opposite direction towards the Beartooth Highway and Chief Joseph Highway for late afternoon and evening light. I grab a sandwich to go from Jan at Buns ’N Beds; we’ve been fast friends ever since Jan patched up George’s leg in a skiing accident outside town close to 20 years ago. They make hearty subs, although I must admit I have a strong weakness for Leo’s Cheddar Bombs cooked on the outside grill…

Fall colors along the Clarks Fork

I spend the rest of the afternoon chasing the colors and light along the Clarks Fork, stopping at almost every pullout between Cooke Pass and the Chief Joseph Highway to catch different angles of Pilot and Index, the peaks that dominate the skyline here.

As it grows dark along the river valley I chase the light up towards the higher elevation Beartooths. I fully intend to drive to the top, but get distracted by a nondescript two-track that leads to a humble pond with the most gorgeous reflections. Instead of heading up higher for sunset as I intended, I watch the colors change on the water as the day goes down. The feeling of peace and contentment—just me, my camera, and the glory of fall leaves—is divine.

On the way home the next morning, I take a few moments to watch the Junction Butte wolf pack parading back and forth across Lamar Valley. The pack is HUGE—35 individuals! I watch a group of about 8 greet each other, sniffing and wagging their tails. Further down the valley, another handful are strung out like black and grey beads across the broad alluvial fan at the base of Specimen Ridge.

That night after I return home, I lay in bed listening to a stiff and persistent wind and think “I haven’t had enough time yet!” I vow to spend as much time outside before the leaves are blown off the trees and only the bare skeletons remain.

Catching Yellowstone’s Fall Colors from Cooke City

Plan to visit Cooke City by mid September. While it’s possible the colors might still be great towards the end of the month, there is an equal chance that the higher elevations will have seen snow, and a good chance the Beartooth Highway is closed either temporarily or for the season.

Additionally, the restaurants in Silver Gate and Cooke City are highly seasonal; most shut down by the end of September. If you come later, be sure to bring your own food and book lodging that allows you to cooke or prepare in your room. I would also recommend checking with the Cooke City Chamber on what services are available when you come.

If you’d like to see more fall colors, check out:

Hiking Yellowstone’s Fall Color

Reveling in Yellowstone’s Fall Color